Friday, December 30, 2011

Simms ProDry Gear - Now at Monster Fishing Tackle

The Simms ProDry Rain Gear is a completely new line of rain gear from the Simms Fishing Company.

After years of testing, the final version has been given the thumbs up from the guys that really know their stuff, the professional anglers. Some testing stories boasted 300+ days of wear in the worst conditions without a single problem. The Simms Gear is by far the most fishable and comfortable rain gear you will ever find. Even the Alaskan crab fishermen have approved this stuff - and those guys are tough!

Take a look at out selection of the Simms ProDry Rain Gear

Alabama Rig - Rago Bait Ball

The Alabama Rig has taken the tournament world by storm. The contraption looks like something you would dangle over a baby's crib, not something you would be casting to bass.
Jerry Rago Bait Ball
 Although reminiscent of the old striper trolling rigs, this lure is far more advanced, and its castable. The Alabama Rig style bait is comprised of a central head with five wires running out from it. Each wire ends with a snap swivel for attaching a bait of your choice. A few of the popular rigging options include the Basstrix or Keitech swimbaits on jig heads, usually a 1/4oz model. Other anglers have rigged up spinnerbaits and buzzbaits with extraordinary success. 

Jerry Rago has created his own version of the Alabama rig with an extremely realistic head. Take a look at Jerry Rago's Bait Ball:

Jerry Rago Alabama Rig

In some states including California, regulations only allow for three attached baits so one way to rig the Alabama rig for California is shown here:
Alabama Rig
Some possible methods of rigging this bait are as follows:

For states that do not regulate the number of hooks to 3 -
For states that place a 3 hook maximum regulation -
  • Three 1/4oz Swimbait Heads with your favorite oft plastic paddle tail style swimbait between 3-6 inches in length. Some possible choices include: Keitech Swimbaits or the Little Creeper Trash Fish. For the remaining wires add a medium or large Owner Centering Pin and attach two more swimbaits. This method will still provide the "bait ball" look you are trying to replicate, but will be completely legal for those states such as California with additional regulations.
  • For shallow water or a weedless presentation try rigging the bait with the Trokar Swimbait Hooks, but make sure to use a weighted belly hook on the bottom wire for keeling purposes.
  • You can also slow the retrieve speed of the bait by adding Spinnerbait Blades in place of the two teaser baits. This method of rigging will create quite a bit of drag similar to a spinnerbait. While experimenting with this method it was found to be more productive to use the swimbait hooks instead of the swimbait heads. The additional weight made the bait very difficult to retrieve and it detracted from the action of the swimbaits.

Whether you agree with the principle of the product or not, it is a proven fish catcher and tournament winner.

If you'd like more information check out this page: 

Summer Time Bass Patterns - BAG

Summer Time Bass Patterns
By John Harper
Reproduced with permission from Bass Anglers Guide

Throughout most of the country fishing for bass in the summer time can be very challenging. The heat can make it uncomfortable on the angler but even worse it can put the bass in a neutral state. The only thing worse than not catching fish is being miserable and not catching fish.

Here in the West we are spoiled. We certainly have our share of hot days, but due to the diversity of our fisheries we still can experience some amazing summertime fishing. We have all kinds of fisheries here, everything from shallow water like the California Delta, to deep water impoundments like Lake Oroville and Shasta.

When considering how to pattern summertime bass in a typical western lake you have to take into account the entire water column. What I mean by this is that you can catch fish from 0-60 feet at almost anytime during the day.

Most of us who have been fishing for any time at all know that in the summer time the morning bite is usually best. There are many reasons for that. In a lake where baitfish like shad or pond smelt are the main forage these baitfish will begin to work their way to the surface during the night. As the sun comes up in the morning the bait will still be in the top of the water column. It’s as simple as the bass following the bait to the shallows.

Bass will tend to move more over the course of the day in the summertime than any other time of the year. There’s a pretty good chance that the fish you catch in the morning don’t live where you’re catching them. It’s much more probable that they are using the location as a feeding area. 

Due to the falling water levels during the summer, I will spend most of the morning hours on main lake points. My favorite bait to start a summer morning with is a Zara Spook. I like to throw my Spook on a Dobyns 734C casting rod matched with a Daiwa baitcaster and 15lb test P-Line CXX mono. The most important tip I can give on Spook fishing is to change your stock hooks with Owner Stinger Trebles. Just for clarification, I’m not sponsored by Owner, but I believe they have the stickiest hook ever made. Summertime bass tend to be binge feeders and in the excitement of their morning feeding they will not always have the best aim. These hooks can catch a lot of fish that don’t have the bait completely in their mouths.

As you begin to catch fish make sure you are paying attention to the slightest of details. Angles can be everything. When I approach a point I will start on one side and work all the around to the opposite side making multiple casts. You may find that the fish want the bait crossing the point in order to get them to react.

Retrieve can be just as important as angle. As a general rule the lower the light the faster my retrieve. This really is something that will need to be experimented with. Speed and cadence are going to be critical to your early morning topwater success.

As the sun begins to come up and hit the water I will move my topwater presentation to north facing bluffs or rock walls. These banks will have shade on them and can keep the top water bite going for you a little longer.

One of my favorite things to fish is short shadows. This is when the sun continues to rise and there are only a couple feet of shade against the bank. I have had some of the best summertime fishing of my life in these short shadows. In addition to the Spook, I also like to toss a 1 ounce Bladerunner buzzbait in the short shadows. The heft is a benefit for long cast and the head design planes quickly. At times its like the shadow is moving, pulling back against the bank and it’s scooping up all the fish and compressing them in this tiny bit of shade. It’s not uncommon for the bite to get better as the shadows get shorter. Some of your most aggressive topwater bites will come in this little narrow band of water.

When these shadows disappear I will back out off the bank and begin to look for the fish
that have moved to deep water. What I will typically look for is a point on the side of a small cut or creek channel that the predominate wind blows into. As the wind blows into these places the bait will begin to show up in large numbers. The key here is the presence of baitfish.

During the summer you will find fish doing different things in different parts of the lake. There are times when you can just follow your morning fish out off the bank. There will also be fish that will never go to the bank. This is not uncommon on a body of water that gets a lot recreational boat traffic.  

Later into the summer the lakes get drawn down more and more. The fish will begin to stay off the bank all day and some cases all night. Obviously your graph is going to be your main tool when chasing these fish. I keep it pretty simple when fishing off the bank. If I can see the fish well on the graph I will dropshot a small shad pattern worm. My preference is Mother’s Finest hand pour worms. Sometimes, fish seem to disappear off the graph, even though I successfully graphed them a moment earlier.  More often than not, they have lain down on the bottom and your graph, no matter how good it is, will not pick them up. At this point I will go to a 6 inch worm on a darthead in a green or oxblood color. I will stay with a 3/16oz out to 30 feet and then go to 1/4oz  below that. For worming, I use a Dobyns spinning rod, model 704 matched with a Daiwa spinning reel and 6lb test P-Line Fluorocarbon. Always look at the bellies of these deep fish when you get them in the boat. What you often see is mud on their bellies. Another way to know if there are fish hiding on the bottom is to watch the graph when fishing vertical. I can’t tell you how many times I have seen a single fish directly below the boat, dropped down on it, hooked it and watched the bottom rise up with 10 other marks that chase the hooked fish off the bottom. When you see this, a darthead slowly dragged on a long line is the most effective way to get these mud bellies to eat.

For the longest time, I questioned whether I should use a darthead, a dropshot or even how long to make the dropshot leader. I was convinced that bass just related to the bottom and the only thing to be concerned with was whether they were mud bellies or 12 inches off the bottom. This all changed a few years back when I was invited to go fishing with a guy named Robert Marxmiller. He had been winning a bunch of money at Lake Don Pedro and was one of the first guys in Northern California to really figure out the swimbait bite.

If you have ever been to Don Pedro in the summer you know how tough it can be. Brutal doesn’t even begin to describe the bite there.  We launched the boat and ran down the lake stopping about a quarter mile off a point. The first thing out of my mouth was, “Dude, it’s 150 feet deep here”. Robert just laughed and jumped to the front of the boat and put the trolling motor in the water. About a minute later he asked me to come up front and look at the graph with him. Suspended in the middle of the water column were some of the biggest marks I have ever seen on a graph. Robert proceeded to teach me the lesson of a lifetime- not all bass are relating to the bottom, especially the big trout eaters.

Just a few of John’s many accomplishments:  Won Bass 5 fish weight record holder 37.82, 2005 Angers Choice Pro-Am Angler of the year, 2005 Angers Choice Pro-Am Delta Champion, 3 times West Coast Classic Qualifier         

John is sponsored by: Dobyns Rods, Daiwa, P-Line, Basstrix USA, Blade Runner Tackle,
Osprey Lure, Mothers Finest Worms

Gary Dobyns Jerkbaits - BAG

JERKBAITS – THE TOTAL STORY WITH GARY DOBYNS
By: Terry Battisti
Reproduced with permission from Bass Anglers Guide

“People think it’s a hard technique to learn and master but I think it’s the easiest to learn and gain confidence in.” – Gary Dobyns

The Pointer 128 zings through the air past the stand of tules, which is the main target.  As the bait hits the water the angler starts his methodical cadence back to the boat – jerk-jerk-pause….jerk-jerk-pause.  The angler envisions the bait darting side to side through the water like a baitfish trying to flee a predator – that is until the bait reaches the stand of tules.
His normal twitch of the wrist is suddenly stopped as dead weight keeps the rod tip from moving backwards.  The anger senses the weight and sweeps the rod back, setting six barbs deep in the bass’ jaw. Another fish has succumbed to the dance of the jerkbait.

Anglers all over the country are finding more and more the versatility of the jerkbait.  Yet, many anglers are often intimidated by them or don’t understand what is needed in order to fish this special genre of baits effectively. This is why we sat down with venerable western pro and jerkbait artist Gary Dobyns to uncover some of the mystery behind the bait and what he prefers tackle-wise.
“Without a doubt, I get more questions about this technique than any other,” Dobyns said. “People think it’s a hard technique to master but I think it’s the easiest to learn and gain confidence in.
Tackle is a major player when it comes to success with jerkbaits.  “The rod is so important in jerkbait fishing and this is probably the number-one mistake anglers make when starting out,” he said.  “The rod is all about working the bait and loading properly when you hook a fish.  You want enough action in the rod it’ll hook the fish yet not so much that it’ll tear the hooks out of the fish. For this, I like a medium-fast action rod.  This action allows the rod to bend into the mid-section of the blank and act as a shock absorber.
“My favorite all-around rod for jerkbaits is my 705CB.  If I had to use only one rod, that’d be my choice.  But, if I’m throwing a lot of smaller baits like a Pointer 78 I’ll drop down to the 704CB.  Likewise, if I’m fishing a heavier bait like a Pointer 128, I’ll upsize my rod to a 706CB.  The important thing about all these rods is they’re all medium-fast in action.”
Reels are also important in his eyes.  “Without a doubt, I believe the fast reels, like the Diawa Zillion, with at least a 6.3:1 gear ratio are the best for this type of fishing,” he said.  “This is because it’s more difficult to keep up with the bait with the slower reels.”
Line is another area where first-time jerkbaiters make a mistake.  “A lot of anglers fish too heavy of line,” Dobyns said.  “You’ll never find me fishing anything heavier than 12-pound test, even in heavy cover.  In fact, when I fish the clearer reservoirs, I drop down to 8-pound test.  I also prefer monofilament line.  It’s not that fluorocarbon won’t work, I just have better luck with the mono.”
He has also refined his bait selection over the years to a few simple choices.  “My number-one bait of choice is and always has been the Lucky Craft Staysee 90SP ver 2.  That bait has won a lot of money for me over the years.  My second choice is the Pointer 128 and then the Pointer 100 in both the standard model and the DD series.
I use the 100DD over the Staysee when I’m fishing largemouth as opposed to spots and smallies.  In the later case, I use the Staysee.  The difference in the two is the Staysee is a smaller-profile bait where the 100DD has a deeper body and dives deeper too.
“As far as smaller baits, I like the Pointer 78 in both the standard and DD models.  The DD has been another money-bait for me.  It doesn’t dive much deeper than the standard but had a different action and when the pond smelt come up in the fall, this bait will put a lot of weight in the boat fast.”
There’s another bait he throws other than the ones mentioned above. “The other bait I throw is the 1/2-ounce Rattlin’ Rogue,” he said. “But there’s nothing stock about them. I pull the lips from them and replace them with lexan lips I hand carve.  The new bills are larger than stock and give the bait a better roll in the water and they go deeper too.”
That isn’t all he does with bait modifications.  “The bait I modify the most is the Staysee.  I reweight them so they don’t suspend but sink slightly.  I do this by adding two suspend dots to the bait right where the bill meets the body.  This gives the bait a slight nose-down attitude and I can get the bait deeper because of this.  If I want the bait to go deeper, I’ll add another suspend dot right behind the first hook hanger.  Weighted in this fashion, I can get a Staysee to hit 10-foot depths.”
Hook change outs are another modification he does on nearly all his baits. “For the Staysee, I change out the original size 5 hooks to size 4 Gamakatsu round bends.  Generally, I do this with all my jerkbaits – going up one size from the stock hooks.”
In the last issue of the Bass Anglers Guide, Dobyns talked about color choices.  He reiterates his choices here.  “I keep my colors simple for jerkbaits and I classify them into specific shades – white, flashy, chartreuse and subtle. My favorite is Ghost Minnow and that’s my subtle color.  I use it when I’m in clear water.  My second color is Chartreuse Shad (white).  I generally start off the day with this color and then switch to Ghost Minnow as the sun gets higher in the sky if the water’s clear.  The third color is Table Rock Shad (chartreuse). This is the color I throw on dark days or if there’s stain in the water.  Spots and smallies also hate this color.  The last color I use is American Shad (flashy).  This is probably the best color ever invented for Clear Lake and a great color when a flashy bait is needed.”
Dobyns also takes into consideration the season of the year and weather conditions. “Overall, I prefer low-light conditions with rain and some wind because of the decreased light penetration and the low pressure seems to make the fish more active.
“As far as seasons go, spawn and fall are by far the best times to use these tools.  If an angler doesn’t have at least one rod rigged with a jerkbait in the spring, they’re crazy.  Post-spawn is especially good for them when the fish are guarding fry on the nest.  The fall is good because the fish have turned on again and have come shallow chasing bait.  Summer is absolutely the worst time of the year to throw them.
Cadence is also important when fishing these baits.  “I vary my cadence until I figure out what the fish want.  Mostly, though, I use a jerk-jerk-pause retrieve.  How long you let it set is the million dollar question, though.  More often than not I'll let it sit only 1-2 seconds with my longer pauses being maybe 5-7 seconds at the most.  I'm using this technique as a power-fishing technique in order to cover water.  Another retrieve I use is a pop-pop-pop like the bait’s trying to get away.  This is a retrieve that’s more popular in the east, though. You just have to experiment each day and figure out what the fish want.
Proper drag settings and hooksets are tantamount with being successful. “Hooksets are very important, he said. “You use a sweeping set so you don’t rip the bait out of the fish.  Another important factor is drag tension.  My drags are set so they slip when I get the rod 3/4ths of the way through my sweep.
“The cool thing about jerkbaits is you can get both active and inactive fish to eat them. The fish don’t need to be in a feeding mode.  They draw strikes when other techniques won’t do anything.
Dobyns credits jerkbaits to his success as a pro bass angler.  “If it wasn’t for throwing jerkbaits, I wouldn’t be a tournament fisherman.  I made a lot of my money and won a lot of boats using them.  I was one of the first people on the west coast using this technique and I had a long time when I was the only one using it in tournaments.  That allowed me to gain a lot of confidence in the technique and gave me an edge on the competition.  Hopefully you’ll take some of these tips I have come up with over the years and use them to increase your success on the water.
Gary Dobyns is sponsored by Ranger, Evinrude, Dobyns Rods, Diawa, Lowrance, Minn-Kota, Power Pro, Costa Del Mar, Yamamoto, P-Line, Robo Worm and Sawyer and Cook Insurance.
Terry Battisti is a freelance writer and columnist for magazines such as:  In-Fisherman, Bass West USA, Inside Line and BassFan.com.  His sponsors include BassCat Boats, Mercury Marine and American Northwest Outdoors.

Ultra-Finesse Drop Shot - BAG

Ultra Finesse Drop-Shot
by: George Roth of George's Custom Rods


Clouds hung in the mountain valleys; the cool morning air was heavy with moisture.  The rod tip danced lightly above the calm surface, then became still.  As the rod was slowly raised, it began to bow under the additional weight of a bass that had just inhaled the bait.  Before the fish could detect the presence of the angler, the reel began to take up line, causing the small, sharp hook to penetrate the fish’s upper lip.  After a spirited fight, the fish was carefully placed into the live well.

One of the hottest bass fishing techniques to strike the U.S. in recent years has been the drop shot rig.  In its simplest form, it consists of tying a hook to your line with a Palomar knot, then leaving the tag end to attach the weight.  This results in the bait being suspended above the sinker where it is easier for the fish to distinguish.

The drop shot technique is reputed to have originated in Japan.  If you talk to steelhead and catfish anglers, they’ve used this technique for years to suspend their baits off the bottom of lakes and rivers across the country.  Since the late 90’s, anglers in the Western U.S. have refined this technique for the clear, deep-water impoundments they fish.  Since then, this presentation has migrated East where fishermen adapted it to their own fishing conditions.  As a result, drop shotting is no longer just a finesse method, but can be used with heavy line to present an 8” lizard along weed edges or worked over a stump laden point.  Because of this, rod selection is dependent upon the type of cover or structure being targeted.  The remainder of this article will go into detail about the rod that is best suited for finesse situations, as they are often the most challenging.

In order for the angler to present a plastic bait in an enticing manner, feel the bite and then bring the fish to the boat, the rod has to have certain fundamental characteristics.  This includes a flexible tip and adequate power in the butt section, along with being the correct length for the conditions being fished.  Other factors that affect rod performance are guide selection and the handle design.  All of these variables must be considered when constructing a comfortable, well balanced rod.

The tip section of a drop shot rod is one of the most important aspects of the rod.  An ideal drop shot blank has a tip that flexes with the slightest amount of pressure.  This is because the angler is fishing the rig on a slack line and almost always, the bite is never felt.  Only a slight tightening of the line is detected.  With a rod that has a very limber tip, the angler detects the bite by “feeling” the line tighten up while the tip of the rod stops moving or “goes dead”.  Heavier action rods don’t allow the angler to “feel” these slight differences in the weightlessness of the presentation and can also signal a touchy fish to spit the bait before the angler even knows there is a bass on the other end.  The soft tip action is also essential to maintain pressure on the hook while fighting the fish.  As the fish surges, the rod will move easily with the fish, exerting constant pressure on the hook.  This light rod will also require that you take your time and not pressure the fish.  A rod with a stiffer tip action would be less forgiving and likely tear the hook from the delicate tissue that lines the fish’s mouth.  Remember, this is a light line technique and you won’t be able to simply muscle a decent sized fish into the boat.     

The length of a typical drop shot rod can vary from 6’3” to 7’0” but may range from as short as 6’0” to as long as 7’6”.  When using the finesse method, the rods are typically shorter.   The shorter length makes it easier to fish vertically below the boat.  Longer rods provide an advantage when casting, as they produce longer distances with the light weights associated with this technique.

Handle design is a matter of personal choice. There are numerous styles to choose from.  Whichever you choose, some of the most important traits would be overall length, comfort and sensitivity.  Reel seat placement should allow the blank to balance well in the angler’s hand.  By holding the reel seat loosely in the palm of the hand, the rod tip should be moved with a slight increase of pressure placed on the handle.  I personally use my thumb and index finger to provide motion to the tip.  A popular method in California is to tuck the handle under the arm, then shake the rod tip.

When building an ultra finesse drop shot rod, or any rod for that matter, additional weight to the blank should be minimized as it will effect the rod’s action.  For this reason, I have been using the lightest guides I have been able to find, which are the RECoil single-foot, Nickel / Titanium guides, produced by REC.  If you prefer a ceramic guide, then the Fuji New Concept, J-frame, guides are a great choice.  They are available in either a stainless steel frame with alconite ceramic inserts or the titanium frame and silicone carbide (SiC) inserts. 

With these desirable traits in mind, my search of numerous blanks available from a variety of manufacturers has resulted in the discovery of what I consider the ideal blank.  The Shikari SHII P 7000 has been designed with a flexible tip section, which makes it well suited for the ultra light drop shot technique. This blank is rated for line in the 3-6# class and weights ranging from 1/32 to 5/16 of an ounce. It has a hinged action, where the flexible tip becomes stiffer, providing the power needed to fight quality fish.  When fighting a large fish with such a light rod, the type of material the blank is constructed from is important.  I elected to use the lower modulus (less stiff) blank, as it is more flexible than a higher modulus blank.  This reduces the likelihood of breaking the rod when battling an overzealous bass.

When the tournament clock is ticking and you need to put more fish in the boat, reach for the ultra light drop shot rod.  This rod will allow you to use the lightest line possible, thus increasing your chance of fooling even the wariest bass.

Bass Highways (to the Dining Room) - BAG

Bass Highways (to the Dining Room)   
By Alton Jones

Reprinted with permission from Bass Angler's Guide

 There is one key idea that has had a strong impact on my success as a fisherman. This thought goes through my mind constantly while preparing, practicing and while competing in tournaments. Bass follow pathways. Bass are like all the other animals that God created and put on this earth, in that they tend to follow pathways. 

We often perceive a body of water to be this big unknown mystery with fish swimming randomly around out there but once we embrace the fact that they are somewhat predictable, we become better at pursuing them. Bass are creatures of habit, just as you and I are.  You probably eat most of your meals in the same room in your house. When you eat in that room you probably do it sitting in the same chair every time. Sure, you occasionally eat out, but even then, you tend to go to the same restaurant and you frequently order the same items. Bass are just like us. 
They key to fishing success is finding the Dining Room.  While traveling across the country from tournament to tournament, I've noticed fast food establishments at almost every major intersection we pass. My kids are experts at spotting those golden arches.  There aren't many restaurants on rural farm roads in the middle of nowhere, because restaurants are found where the traffic is. This sounds simple but many people spend much of their time fishing in the middle of nowhere, away from the pathways. It doesn't matter how polished your techniques are, if you are fishing where the bass don't swim you won't be very successful.


There are many types of underwater pathways but here are a few of the major ones:  creek channels, ridges, ledges, weed and tree lines, rock seams, stump and old fence rows, road beds, and the shoreline. Many anglers fish the shoreline most of the time and that's why they do best in spring. Spring is the one time of year when many of the bass are using the shoreline pathway.

The best places to find concentrations of bass are where two or more of these pathways form an intersection. Bass are classic predators and will exploit any advantage they can find over their prey; these intersections provide bass with just that. Find an intersection and you've found a Dining Room!
Spend a little time thinking about bass highways and Dining Rooms before your next trip to the water and it will help you put more and bigger fish in the boat!

Find all the tackle you'll need for any season at Monster Fishing Tackle

 

Find a Pattern That Fits - BAG

Find a Pattern That Fits
By Andy ‘Cooch' Cuccia


Reprinted with permission from Bass Angler's Guide 

pringtime bass fishing on the California Delta can be nothing short of exhilarating.  The opportunity to catch a double-digit fish of a lifetime is greatly enhanced when the big hens of the river move shallow to spawn.  This river system can appear to be seemingly endless with over 1,000 miles of shoreline, and for many anglers, the Delta can be feast or famine during this time.  The successful anglers on this system and other large bodies of water don't let that get in their way and develop patterns that can be used in many different areas of their chosen body of water.  In this case the California Delta.  With constantly changing weather conditions, understanding the seasonal migration habits of the bass will help you better develop various patterns that will work on any given day.  Most anglers develop one pattern and then duplicate that pattern throughout the week.  Problem here is, when that weather change occurs, the fishing activity changes and that pattern does not work for a few days.  More often then not, this unfortunately happens on tournament day.
The Delta is a very versatile fishery with a wide array of habitat and structure which offer the bass many cover options especially when the spawning season approaches.  On the lakes it's easy.  Go find the shallow northern banks and look for those bedding bass up shallow.   Not necessarily true here.  Delta bass tend to prefer western and southern banks.  Keep in mind; a bass is a bass, no matter where they live.  They just live in different neighborhoods.  In lakes, bass migrate from the deeper main lake areas to the creek channels leading into the shallow bays then up into the shallows to spawn.  Similar concept on the Delta but it's just the opposite.  The majority of bass here will hang out in the deeper channels of all the river arms surrounding Franks Tract, Holland Cut, Sandmound, Piper, Dutch Slough, False River, Washington Cut, Connection and Old River.  Major spawning occurs in the big shallow lakes; Franks Tract, Big Break, Mildred, Mandeville, Venice Reach, Sherman Lake to name a few.
Bass migrate from these deeper winter areas into the shallow main lake areas to spawn.  Once the spawn is complete, they will begin to transition and make their way back to their deeper haunts. Therefore, instead of leaving the main lake to go shallow and spawn, the bass here come into the main lakes to spawn. This now gives you a great starting point to developing various patterns that will work. You must also keep in mind that less then 30 percent of the Delta's bass population are ever up shallow spawning at the same time and 90 percent of the bass fishermen in the spring will go up and target those shallow spawning fish.  To be successful here, you must become part of that 10 percent who are fishing for 70 percent of the Delta's bass population. Senkos or a dropshot rig are very productive baits for those bedding bass but each of them work under different conditions.  When water temperatures are rising and the bass are building or sitting on their beds, the Senko is deadly.  Give us a cold front and a drop in water temperature, the dropshot shines above all else in the shallows.  When neither of them will produce the kind of bite you're looking for, then it's time to go to those other patterns where the fish are transitioning from deep to shallow.  Bouncing jigs and big Texas rigged plastics on the tulle covered islands is a great tactic. This is a pattern that will be consistent all spring long.  Remember this next pattern especially when most guys are pounding the bank.  Chucking and winding various swimbaits and wakebaits in the grass flats is a proven tactic for landing some giant pre-spawn bass.  Another variation to this, and a great method for catching those staging fish, is to toss a lipless crankbait on the edge of weed lines near deep water.

Check out some of Cooch's favorite Delta Jigs: TNT Jigs








Springtime, more than any other time of the year, offers the avid bass angler a wide array of opportunities to catch numbers of fish as well as big fish on the Delta.  Get out of your comfort zone and allow yourself to develop the confidence in other baits and patterns that will keep you consistently catching fish when your tried-and-true methods fail.  The more patterns you can develop in the springtime, the more fun you'll have fishing day-in and day-out!

Keep A Tight Line!
Cooch
www.coochsfishing.com


Finding 'em as fast as 1-2-3 - BAG

FINDING ‘EM AS FAST AS 1-2-3!
By Aaron Coleman
Article reprinted with permission from Bass Anglers Guide

In today's fast paced world, most people want results yesterday, in the world of tournament bass fishing it's no different. In fact, with the pressure, competition and ever changing conditions of your typical tournament, you just might want today's results last week. Let's talk about how and where to find today's limit as quickly as possible.

POINTS
Every body of water has at least one “point,” and that's a great place to start fishing, but why? Because points give prey and predators a horizontal and vertical route between shallow and deep water.  With multiple directions for shad, blue gill, trout and other fish to maneuver it's easy to see why an apex predator like bass would be there. Point's present bass with so many feeding opportunities, it's like living in a supermarket. So let's go shopping!

HUMPS
These are some of my favorite places to fish. There's something about not being able to see my target that gets me excited. Humps are shallower than the surrounding structure and are a magnet for bass. Whenever you find a foot or more of depth change there's a good chance “a big dog” could be lurking nearby. Humps consist of rock, clay, sand or some other firm structure. The surrounding landscape can give you a pretty good idea of where they're likely to be. Islands, rocky banks and landslide areas are a tip-off  that you could be in the right place. When you find a hump always make your first cast to the shallowest part and then work deeper. The most active fish are on the shallowest part of the hump while the inactive bass hang on the edges.

ROCKS, TULES & WEEDS
This combination is usually found in river systems like the California Delta or natural waters like Clear Lake. I think the combination of structure and cover attracts the bass.
A lot of times they have a tendency to look for deeper spots near the bank where the rock/tule/weed combination is present. When I say “deeper”, I mean as little as 6 inches deeper. Even during low-tide at the California Delta those little holes are going to hold fish. On high tide these are one of the first places to turn-on because the bass are already there, they don't have to move to the spot. So what makes this combination so good? 
1. Rocks provide a vertical structure that give bass something to put their tail or nose against. Rocks tend to hold heat in the winter and provide shade in the summer. They also attract crawdads, insects and other critters for bass to feed on.
2. Tules give bass great vertical cover to suspend in. I say this because most of my bites in the tules come while the lure is falling. Tules generally grow on hard or gravelly bottom, which is an ideal place for bass to spawn and live.
3. Weeds are the equivalent of an apartment building full of prey and predators. The weed-stalks acts like a wall, with the tips serving as a roof. Living weeds produce oxygen, dead ones produce heat. Bass are attracted to green weeds in warm weather and dead ones when it's cold.
Using the formula I've laid out above can make finding the fish is as easy as “1-2-3”!
Check out my website at: www.Stillfishin.com

You can find any gear you may need at Monster Fishing Tackle

Fishing Southern California Waters - BAG

Southern Cal Waters
 By Larry Hopper
Reprinted with permission from Bass Angler's Guide

Southern California contains numerous small to medium sized lakes, some of which are excellent bass fisheries. Fishing for bass in So Cal can be a very frustrating proposition for the average recreational angler. Most of these lakes are not only heavily fished but are used by water skiers, jet skiers and pleasure boaters. These heavily used waterways make the bass exceptionally wary and difficult to catch, we sometimes call these fish “”city bass” because they make their home in lakes near large cities.
   The key to improving your success in catching these “city bass' lies in fishing technique and fishing locations in the lake. Always keep the four basic seasons; spring, summer, fall and winter in mind when you go fishing.

Spring time- you should be targeting 2-10 feet of water inside shallow sheltered areas where bass will be spawning.
   Summer time-you should be targeting 10-25 feet of water on main lake points, humps and ledges where the bass will be living and feeding in the warm water.
   Fall fishing-you should be targeting the 10-35 feet of water on main lake points, humps and ledges where the bass will be feeding as the water cools.
   Winter fishing- you should be targeting 25-65 feet of water on main lake points, humps and ledges where the bass will be feed infrequently in cold, deep water.
   During all 4 seasons you may want to utilize finesse fishing techniques:
  • Use 5-8 pound test when ever possible
  • Use lighter weights - 1/16 oz, 1/8 oz, 3/16 oz, spit shot
  • Use small baits like 3”-4” worms, grubs or reapers
  • Use a dart head or round head jig and worm
   Forget the 10, 12 or 15 pound test outfits. Fish light line with a split shot, drop shot, Carolina or Texas rig plastic and you will get a lot more bites. Split shot, drop shot and Carolina rigs should be fished very slow in order to make a subtle presentation of the bait.  Remembe,r when worm fishing if you think your're fishing slow… slow down even more.  Using light line and weights, small hooks and plastic baits and fishing slowly will definitely increase your catch rate when fishing So Cal lakes. And please, always practice Catch and Release, our “city bass” are precious!

Play the Odds - Any Lake Any Time - BAG

By Mark Lassagne
Reprinted with permission from Bass Angler's Guide



A quick pitch to the closest piling watching the bait as it falls to the bottom, the line twitches! What is it? Is it a bass? Most likely! How big? Is it still there? Your heart races that split second before you set the hook. For the bass angler this adrenalin rush is what keeps us fishing. “This rush is what it's all about”!
Let's see how to get more of these “what it's all about” bites.
 First, a little homework helps, try to learn the generalities about the lake and get a good contour map or mapping chip. The internet is a wealth of information and by searching fishing reports using the month, weather conditions and water temperature as criteria, I can often get a pretty good idea of what to expect at a certain time of year, especially on a new lake. Friends are also a great source of information as most bass fishermen remember every fish they've caught for many years! Tackle shops can be a great resource, call more than one if possible and
then stop by on your way to the lake. While you're there, look around and see which pegs are empty, sometimes the low inventory and your previous research coincide. Another resource is tournament circuits, look for recent events and the results.  This information can be a yardstick to measure your success against.
Hopefully you now have a starting point, combine that information with these basic seasonal patterns and you'll have a good idea of where the bass are.

General locations per season:


Winter: We will be looking at deep water areas, submerged islands, deep creek channels and main-lake points. 
Spring: Bass move from their deep winter haunts to protected spawning flats, this happens at different time in different areas. Some bass start to move up when the water is in the 50's, others when it's in the 60's. Try to envision a route from the main lake to the spawning area. The protected banks with southern exposure will warm first and receive the bass first. Eventually, most all of the protected coves will have spawning bass. Keep in mind bass spawn on a hard surface bottom. If it's silt you won't find any bass. You can use your rod-tip as a mud or hard-bottom locator.
Summer: Again, the bass are moving from the spawning area back to the main lake and if you found fish in the spring, start in those same areas. The first few weeks after the spawn can be very tough fishing. Depending on the month, you may try the areas where the fish spawn early or later. Bass seem to move quite a bit in the summer so a “stick and move “approach is wise, don't wait for a bite that just isn't there!
Fall: The focus in the fall is bait, “find the bait and find the fish”. Bass can be in open water chasing bait and you may catch them mid-lake in 200 feet of water, or on the bank a foot deep! It would be helpful to know what bait-type the lake has. Shad will be shallow with the bass not far behind while lakes with pond-smelt will find the bass deep. Fall is a good time to fish structure like points, creek channels and anywhere bass can ambush prey. Bass typically move shallow in the fall their minds and mouths fixed on one thought-FOOD! With an idea of where the fish might be during the 4 seasons, the lure selection is your next challenge, but as important as lure choice, is your confidence in that lure. Without confidence your catch rate will suffer. You might ask: “How do I get confidence in a bait if I have never used it?” Here's what I do. I envision the lure in the water, what it looks like to a fish, how the fish will react and strike and how I will set the hook and play the fish.  It is surprising what a difference this imagining can make. Many times you will intuitively know that you're using the right lure and the more time you spend on the water the stronger this intuition becomes.
 
General methods to catch fish per season:
Starting in the Winter we know the fish are deep. The water is cold, which means we will usually start by fishing slow and deep. Lures that produce in the winter are Texas rigged worms, jigs or Carolina rigs all fished slowly. If you happen to run upon a school of bait, hopping a spoon off the bottom or through the school can be very productive. Sometimes in the winter we have warming trends which can bring the fish up shallow, if this happens, a crankbait or a spinnerbait fished slowly will work. If it is a nice winter day and you feel like you should take off your jacket, give the shallows a quick try. If you're in a deep creek channel with standing timber, try a drop shot or even a weight-less senko right next to the trees.
Spring-time bass focus on crawdads. Crawdads have calcium and protein which helps the fish sustain the rigors of spawning. We have a multitude of crawfish imitation baits starting with the jig. The jig can be fished at any depth no matter which stage of spring it is, and the jig is a big-bass bait. We also have numerous plastics that look like crawfish. This time of year you can also catch giant bass on crankbaits. The key to cranking spring time bass is depth; use a crank bait that runs the depth the bass are at. When spring time bass first move up, they can be caught on almost any lure including, ripbaits, swimbaits and spinnerbaits, while the bigger fish often fall for the biggest baits.
Summer-time brings warm water and the bass' metabolism is on high. Early summer or post-spawn can be tough! Sometimes you can find schools of fry with a fish guarding it, to catch this fish throw a spinnerbait multiple times at the fry and don't worry about where the fish is, it will find your bait. When the fish settle into their summer pattern, the day usually starts out catching fish on topwater baits until the sun comes up, and then working down to 20 feet using plastics or a jig. At the end of the day bass can be caught on topwater again. Bass are not afraid of the sun but it is easier for them to ambush prey in low light. Shade found under docks, near canyon walls and thick weed-lines can be key during the summer. During the summer, a storm-front can help the bite as it brings in cloud cover and cooler weather. When a front blows, late spring to mid-fall, many fish will move shallow and feed. After the front has passed through, the fish will often move deeper, close to structure and the bite may slow.
Fall, follow the bait or fish structure. This can be the most awesome time of the year because bass have one thing on their mind, eating.  Spend a few minutes driving around to find the bait, it may be balled up deep or fish may be busting on the surface. Drive over a few points, check the backs of some coves, find where the bait is and look below the bait for signs of feeding fish. People often mistake boiling fish for trout but sometimes it's a potpourri of trout, bass and other game fish. You may catch a five pound trout on one cast and on the next a five pound bass. You can catch breaking fish on many different lures, topwater and ripbaits being the most productive. In clear water a shad colored fluke works well. If you can't find the bait and there's no action, check out the major creek channels. Within the creek channels, an intersection or sharp bend is the most likely holding area.  Follow the channel from deep to shallow and test a few areas for fish. One bait that works well for creek channels is a lizard rigged Carolina style.
Whichever season you fish, keep an open mind and experiment until you figure it out. The greatest reward in bass fishing is figuring out and fooling the fish, as we keep looking for that “adrenalin rush” that comes with the next bite!
 Mark Lassagne is the publisher of the Bass Anglers Guide Magazine www.bassanglersguide.com and a pro bass angler competing on various circuits across the west coast. For more information on Mark see www.marklassagne.com

Alabama Rigs at Monster Fishing Tackle





Alabama Rig

The Alabama Rig has left a permanent impression on the sport of bass fishing. After the impressive win by Paul Elias at the FLW Tour Open on Lake Guntersville, anglers began to experiment with their own versions of the multi-lure contraption. The phenomenon caught wild-fire and spread throughout the country. Reports of 35lb bags from Clear Lake in California and Lake Fork in Texas were substantiated by tournament results and fishing guide photos.

Anglers can choose to use any number of baits on the 5 wire contraptions, but the most popular and what appears to be the most effective rigging method is attaching 5 swimbaits. There are many swimbaits that will work well with this contraption, but a few of the most commonly used are:
The original Alabama Rig has been the inspiration for many other similar rigs. Each has its unique aspects which need to be experimented with. Here are a few of the models we carry at Monster Fishing Tackle: (Names of products below their respective images)


Chubby Chaser Calabama Rig


Chubby Chaser School Girl



Picasso School-E-Rig



Rago Bait Ball





Venom Pay-Me-Now


Whichever Alabama Rig you choose to use remember that the most important consideration is the jig heads used for the swimbaits. Be sure to place the heavier jig heads on the bottom wire or wires in order to keel the bait correctly. We suggest 1/4oz as the heavy jig heads and the 1/8oz as the smaller jig heads.

Also - due to restrictions in some states anglers may only have 3 hooks. We sell the Calabama Rig - a rig that has 3 wires each of which has a spinnerbait blade in order to look like a larger school of fish. Anglers can also use Owner Twist Lock centering pins and attach swimbaits as teasers without the hooks.